Millions of Gulf Workers Keep Ancient Kerala Harvest Tradition Alive in the Emirates

ONAM COMES TO THE GULF: WHAT KERALA’S HARVEST FESTIVAL MEANS FOR MILLIONS FAR FROM HOME

Fresh banana leaves, intricately layered flower arrangements and the aroma of traditional spices filling kitchens across Karama, Bur Dubai and neighbourhoods throughout the Emirates tell a story that stretches back thousands of years to a mythical king and a promise kept once every year.

For the more than one million Keralites living in the UAE, Onam is a living connection to home. It is the moment when the cultural identity of an entire community finds public expression in a place far from Kerala’s backwaters and coconut groves. This year, the celebration extends to eleven days, running from 16 August through 26 August, when Thiruvonam, the festival’s most important day, arrives.

The roots of Onam lie in ancient Kerala mythology. King Mahabali, a legendary ruler whose reign symbolised an era of unparalleled prosperity and equality, was banished to the underworld by the god Vamana, an avatar of Vishnu. Yet he was granted a single wish: to return to Kerala once each year to see his people. Onam marks that annual homecoming, transforming the entire state into a welcome celebration for a king remembered as one of mythology’s most benevolent figures.

The festival’s observance in the UAE reflects the scale of Kerala’s diaspora. With approximately 4.5 million Indians living across the Emirates and more than one million from Kerala alone, Onam has become one of the most widely celebrated regional festivals among the Indian expat community. Community organisations, shopping malls, restaurants and families organise events across Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah, with preparations visible weeks in advance. Fresh vegetables, coconut and banana leaves are specially flown in from Kerala to ensure authenticity.

The Malayalam calendar, which marks time through nakshatras or lunar mansion stars, determines Onam’s dates. The festival begins with Atham, the first star day, and concludes with Thiruvonam. This year, because the Visakham star fell across two calendar dates on 19 and 20 August, the festival spans eleven days instead of the customary ten. The last time this occurred was in 2017.

The festival’s defining traditions create a sensory immersion into Kerala’s cultural heritage. Pookalam, a floral carpet made from fresh flowers, is laid at the entrance of homes each morning and built up layer by layer across the festival’s duration, becoming increasingly elaborate as Thiruvonam approaches. The Onam Sadhya, a traditional vegetarian feast served on banana leaves, features anywhere from 24 to 33 dishes depending on the household, including sambar, avial, olan, thoran, erissery, kalan, rasam, papadum, banana chips, pickles and payasam. Eaten by hand while sitting on the floor, it ranks among the most elaborate meals in Indian cuisine.

Beyond the domestic table, the festival encompasses performances and competitions that showcase Kerala’s artistic traditions. Thiruvathira, a classical dance performed by women in circles on Thiruvonam night, is accompanied by folk songs. Vallamkali, the famous snake boat race held on Kerala’s backwaters, draws teams of over 100 rowers competing in long, narrow boats to the rhythm of traditional songs. Pulikali, a folk art performance where dancers paint their bodies as tigers and leopards, is particularly associated with Thrissur and performed on the festival’s fourth day. Community celebrations also feature traditional games including tug of war and kabaddi.

What distinguishes Onam from many other major festivals is its secular character. Rather than a specifically Hindu celebration, Onam functions as a state festival of Kerala observed across religions and communities. This inclusive nature has allowed the festival to flourish in multicultural environments like the UAE, where Keralites of every background gather to celebrate together.

Meanwhile, the UAE’s Onam celebrations extend well beyond Thiruvonam itself. Community organisations, families and groups hold events across successive weekends, with major celebrations scheduled for the first two weekends of September at Sharjah Expo Centre, featuring appearances by Mollywood stars Mammootty and Kunchacko Boban.

For those experiencing Onam for the first time, Thiruvonam on 26 August offers the clearest entry point into this centuries-old tradition. Whether the community’s Gulf celebrations can sustain that same sense of homecoming for the next generation of Keralites born far from the backwaters remains the festival’s quietly open question.